1
00:00:07,677 --> 00:00:09,533
Vancouver Island is home to

2
00:00:09,533 --> 00:00:13,116
one of the world's most
diverse ecosystems.

3
00:00:14,269 --> 00:00:16,830
Glacier capped mountains,

4
00:00:16,830 --> 00:00:18,163
ancient forests,

5
00:00:19,310 --> 00:00:21,060
nutrient rich oceans,

6
00:00:21,933 --> 00:00:24,237
and a network of rivers and creeks

7
00:00:24,237 --> 00:00:27,570
that support a wilderness like no other.

8
00:00:30,557 --> 00:00:34,474
But one creature stands
out above all the rest,

9
00:00:36,100 --> 00:00:37,683
the pacific salmon.

10
00:00:39,061 --> 00:00:43,061
Virtually all life here
relies on its existence.

11
00:00:45,427 --> 00:00:47,300
As summer draws to an end,

12
00:00:47,300 --> 00:00:50,803
the island prepares for
an invasion of salmon,

13
00:00:50,803 --> 00:00:53,668
a spectacle that fuels the
region's rivers of life.

14
00:01:42,328 --> 00:01:44,056
Hugging the west coast of Canada,

15
00:01:44,056 --> 00:01:46,280
Vancouver Island stretches

16
00:01:46,280 --> 00:01:50,113
approximately 450
kilometers long by 100 wide.

17
00:01:54,199 --> 00:01:58,365
It's the largest island of the
west coast of North America.

18
00:02:01,337 --> 00:02:02,777
While glaciers fuel the flow

19
00:02:02,777 --> 00:02:06,027
of some of Canada's tallest waterfalls,

20
00:02:07,800 --> 00:02:10,328
an endless network of rivers and creeks

21
00:02:10,328 --> 00:02:12,888
provides the ideal habitat
for one pf the world's

22
00:02:12,888 --> 00:02:14,554
most important fish.

23
00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:22,456
Each year, half a billion
salmon leave the sea

24
00:02:22,456 --> 00:02:24,152
to return their spawning grounds

25
00:02:24,152 --> 00:02:26,735
in the rivers of North America.

26
00:02:30,472 --> 00:02:32,856
Vancouver Island is the
destination for millions

27
00:02:32,856 --> 00:02:34,939
of these determined fish.

28
00:02:38,808 --> 00:02:41,384
On their remarkable
journey, the salmon face

29
00:02:41,384 --> 00:02:45,134
an endless array of
challenges and obstacles.

30
00:02:47,977 --> 00:02:52,143
Not all manage to make it home
to spawn the next generation.

31
00:02:53,768 --> 00:02:55,720
It's thought the salmon in these streams

32
00:02:55,720 --> 00:02:57,479
feed more forms of life

33
00:02:57,479 --> 00:03:00,645
than any other creature on the planet.

34
00:03:16,136 --> 00:03:19,497
It's late summer on
Vancouver Island shores.

35
00:03:19,497 --> 00:03:22,913
And the temperature is beginning to drop.

36
00:03:27,064 --> 00:03:31,230
Black bears needs to stock up
for the forthcoming winter.

37
00:03:32,905 --> 00:03:36,936
Over 10,000 roam the island
and they anticipate the arrival

38
00:03:36,936 --> 00:03:40,247
of a calorie rich food
source any time now.

39
00:03:45,432 --> 00:03:48,348
But they'll have to remain patient,

40
00:03:49,415 --> 00:03:51,831
for a little longer at least.

41
00:03:59,336 --> 00:04:01,208
At the northern tip of the island,

42
00:04:01,208 --> 00:04:05,032
in the Johnstone Strait,
millions of salmon converge

43
00:04:05,032 --> 00:04:07,560
after having spent up to five years at sea

44
00:04:07,560 --> 00:04:09,310
in the Pacific Ocean.

45
00:04:16,372 --> 00:04:19,613
This is the first stage
of their testing journey.

46
00:04:19,613 --> 00:04:22,877
And although the black
bears lie further inland,

47
00:04:22,877 --> 00:04:26,043
another predator is eager to eat them.

48
00:04:34,941 --> 00:04:37,821
Named after the naturalist
George Wilhelm Stellar,

49
00:04:37,821 --> 00:04:41,101
who first described them in 1742,

50
00:04:41,101 --> 00:04:44,797
Stellar sea lions are the
largest of all sea lions.

51
00:04:44,797 --> 00:04:47,101
They can reach over three meters in length

52
00:04:47,101 --> 00:04:49,267
and weigh more than a ton.

53
00:04:54,307 --> 00:04:57,091
Unlike most true or crawling seals,

54
00:04:57,091 --> 00:05:00,007
they can walk on all four flippers.

55
00:05:07,492 --> 00:05:09,587
Sea lions also have visible ears

56
00:05:09,587 --> 00:05:13,753
and are often much more vocal
than their counterparts.

57
00:05:16,611 --> 00:05:19,172
Sounding like a group of grumpy old men,

58
00:05:19,172 --> 00:05:21,587
the males constantly bicker
for a better position

59
00:05:21,587 --> 00:05:22,694
in coastal waters.

60
00:05:36,338 --> 00:05:37,698
Stellar sea lions need to eat

61
00:05:37,698 --> 00:05:41,031
around 6% of their body weight each day.

62
00:05:43,314 --> 00:05:45,571
Soon hunger kicks in.

63
00:05:45,571 --> 00:05:48,571
And it's time for a spot of fishing.

64
00:05:58,643 --> 00:06:01,346
Sea lions may seem cumbersome on land,

65
00:06:01,346 --> 00:06:04,786
but underwater they become
streamlined and sleek.

66
00:06:11,249 --> 00:06:14,095
Hitting speeds of over
30 kilometers an hour,

67
00:06:14,095 --> 00:06:18,095
they make tight turns to
outmaneuver their prey.

68
00:06:29,044 --> 00:06:31,621
Victims are captured, shaken

69
00:06:31,621 --> 00:06:34,705
and torn into more manageable chunks.

70
00:06:38,022 --> 00:06:40,228
Although many salmon
fall at this first hurdle

71
00:06:40,228 --> 00:06:43,732
on their journey home,
there's one gentle giant

72
00:06:43,732 --> 00:06:45,482
they need never fear.

73
00:06:58,199 --> 00:07:01,755
Humpback whales can
reach 16 meters in length

74
00:07:01,755 --> 00:07:04,642
and weigh more than 36 tons,

75
00:07:04,642 --> 00:07:08,808
making them the fifth
largest animal on the planet.

76
00:07:24,195 --> 00:07:27,529
Fortunately salmon aren't on their menu.

77
00:07:30,198 --> 00:07:32,080
The humpback's enormous frames are fueled

78
00:07:32,080 --> 00:07:35,335
by small schooling fish of herring

79
00:07:35,335 --> 00:07:39,502
and swarms of tiny shrimp like
crustaceans, known as krill.

80
00:07:42,890 --> 00:07:45,777
These toothless whales
use a mass of bristles

81
00:07:45,777 --> 00:07:49,943
called baleen plates to
filter food from the water.

82
00:07:58,255 --> 00:08:01,546
Like the salmon, the humpbacks
are also about to embark

83
00:08:01,546 --> 00:08:03,296
on a mammoth journey.

84
00:08:06,221 --> 00:08:08,474
They spend each winter in
the warmer, southern waters

85
00:08:08,474 --> 00:08:12,640
of Mexico and Hawaii, around
5,000 kilometers away.

86
00:08:14,647 --> 00:08:17,309
This is where they'll
breed before returning

87
00:08:17,309 --> 00:08:19,786
to Vancouver Island's food rich waters

88
00:08:19,786 --> 00:08:21,870
with their calves in tow.

89
00:08:29,254 --> 00:08:31,946
But one whale never leaves the region

90
00:08:31,946 --> 00:08:35,961
and this predator can
have a taste for salmon.

91
00:08:42,260 --> 00:08:45,130
Killer whales weigh up to nine tons

92
00:08:45,130 --> 00:08:49,296
and roam the island's coast in
pods of up to 30 individuals.

93
00:08:52,732 --> 00:08:55,257
Unlike humpbacks, they have over 20 pairs

94
00:08:55,257 --> 00:08:57,757
of conical interlocking teeth.

95
00:09:00,384 --> 00:09:02,302
Also known as orcas,

96
00:09:02,302 --> 00:09:05,277
named after the roman
guard of the underworld,

97
00:09:05,277 --> 00:09:08,269
they hunt in packs and
are often referred to

98
00:09:08,269 --> 00:09:10,352
as the wolves of the sea.

99
00:09:13,461 --> 00:09:17,627
But this particular pod poses
no threat to the salmon.

100
00:09:19,005 --> 00:09:21,755
These killer whales hunt mammals.

101
00:09:38,689 --> 00:09:42,480
While the resident pods
of orcas eat only fish,

102
00:09:42,480 --> 00:09:45,521
this visiting group goes
for much larger prey,

103
00:09:45,521 --> 00:09:46,937
such a sea lions.

104
00:09:59,645 --> 00:10:00,649
As shoals of salmon

105
00:10:00,649 --> 00:10:03,499
commence their return to Vancouver Island,

106
00:10:03,499 --> 00:10:06,416
another creature prepares to leave.

107
00:10:09,432 --> 00:10:13,373
In East Sooke Park on the
southern tip of the island,

108
00:10:13,373 --> 00:10:16,014
thousands of turkey vultures gather,

109
00:10:16,014 --> 00:10:18,347
creating a unique spectacle.

110
00:10:20,498 --> 00:10:23,295
They are the masters of soaring flight.

111
00:10:33,501 --> 00:10:37,383
Turkey vultures breed along the
entire length of the island.

112
00:10:37,383 --> 00:10:39,672
But during winter, they
head further south,

113
00:10:39,672 --> 00:10:41,339
to mainland America.

114
00:10:47,151 --> 00:10:49,370
On reaching the cooler coastal air,

115
00:10:49,370 --> 00:10:52,380
they form large flocks or kettles,

116
00:10:52,380 --> 00:10:56,546
waiting for the right
conditions to cross the sea.

117
00:10:58,240 --> 00:11:01,972
Turkey vultures aren't strong
fliers, so rely on winds

118
00:11:01,972 --> 00:11:05,305
and thermal currents to keep them aloft.

119
00:11:07,181 --> 00:11:08,466
This efficient way of traveling

120
00:11:08,466 --> 00:11:10,068
uses just a fraction more energy

121
00:11:10,068 --> 00:11:12,818
than when they're standing still.

122
00:11:20,994 --> 00:11:24,756
Like all vultures, they
have excellent eye sight,

123
00:11:24,756 --> 00:11:26,622
but this particular species

124
00:11:26,622 --> 00:11:30,122
also has an extraordinary sense of smell.

125
00:11:32,341 --> 00:11:34,630
The part of their brain
controlling this sense

126
00:11:34,630 --> 00:11:38,547
is three times larger
than some other vultures.

127
00:11:39,909 --> 00:11:42,779
Turkey vultures also lack a nasal septum,

128
00:11:42,779 --> 00:11:45,808
the wall that separates their nostrils.

129
00:11:45,808 --> 00:11:47,989
This allows more air to pass through,

130
00:11:47,989 --> 00:11:51,489
helping them to detect a decaying carcass.

131
00:11:59,429 --> 00:12:02,773
Carrion makes up the
majority of their diet.

132
00:12:02,773 --> 00:12:05,061
They lack the sharp beak and talons

133
00:12:05,061 --> 00:12:08,160
used by other birds of
prey to make a kill.

134
00:12:08,160 --> 00:12:11,910
Their feet more resemble
those of a chicken.

135
00:12:17,715 --> 00:12:20,461
Acids inside their stomachs
are thought to play

136
00:12:20,461 --> 00:12:24,826
a part in helping curb
the spread of disease.

137
00:12:24,826 --> 00:12:28,992
Even anthrax bacteria is killed
off after being consumed.

138
00:12:33,362 --> 00:12:35,704
Despite their decaying diet,

139
00:12:35,704 --> 00:12:39,870
turkey vultures are one of
the cleanest animals around.

140
00:12:42,196 --> 00:12:44,768
Constant preening and a featherless head

141
00:12:44,768 --> 00:12:47,934
keeps germs and microbes to a minimum.

142
00:12:52,072 --> 00:12:54,264
Along with drying and
warming their bodies,

143
00:12:54,264 --> 00:12:58,430
this spread wing stance in the
sun also bakes off bacteria.

144
00:13:04,083 --> 00:13:06,893
With stomach refueled and wings warmed up,

145
00:13:06,893 --> 00:13:11,320
it's time to rejoin the flock
ahead of the journey south.

146
00:13:25,470 --> 00:13:27,494
100 kilometers further north,

147
00:13:27,494 --> 00:13:30,554
along the Englishman River, one creature

148
00:13:30,554 --> 00:13:34,954
is busy stockpiling food
for the winter ahead.

149
00:13:40,254 --> 00:13:42,912
Beavers are North
America's largest rodents

150
00:13:42,912 --> 00:13:45,578
and can reach a meter in length.

151
00:13:53,938 --> 00:13:56,085
Most of their time is spent building dams

152
00:13:56,085 --> 00:13:59,418
along the region's fast flowing streams.

153
00:14:08,157 --> 00:14:12,324
The rivers eventually flood,
creating enormous ponds.

154
00:14:17,857 --> 00:14:19,933
This way the beavers can remain in water

155
00:14:19,933 --> 00:14:21,887
and reach their favorite trees

156
00:14:21,887 --> 00:14:24,637
without having to travel on land.

157
00:14:27,713 --> 00:14:31,285
Beavers only eat the inner
bark of trees and shrubs.

158
00:14:31,285 --> 00:14:35,452
But will gnaw through huge
trunks to create a dam.

159
00:14:42,003 --> 00:14:44,344
Their front teeth never stop growing,

160
00:14:44,344 --> 00:14:48,511
and this constant chewing
prevents them becoming too long.

161
00:14:54,675 --> 00:14:58,953
Beaver ponds play a key role
in the life of pacific salmon.

162
00:14:58,953 --> 00:15:01,278
These vast, calm stretches of water

163
00:15:01,278 --> 00:15:04,112
trap nutrients flowing downstream.

164
00:15:06,253 --> 00:15:09,615
This creates a perfect habitat
for aquatic invertebrates,

165
00:15:09,615 --> 00:15:12,589
which in turn provides fish
with foraging opportunities

166
00:15:12,589 --> 00:15:15,422
not found in fast flowing streams.

167
00:15:19,683 --> 00:15:22,357
These juvenile salmon
hatched six months ago,

168
00:15:22,357 --> 00:15:24,940
following last year's spawning.

169
00:15:27,672 --> 00:15:28,904
They'll spend the next year or so

170
00:15:28,904 --> 00:15:31,984
in these freshwater nurseries
before they're large enough

171
00:15:31,984 --> 00:15:33,318
to head out sea.

172
00:15:36,437 --> 00:15:38,144
At around three years of age,

173
00:15:38,144 --> 00:15:42,311
they'll return to this exact
stretch of water to breed.

174
00:15:47,139 --> 00:15:49,285
Further downstream towards the ocean,

175
00:15:49,285 --> 00:15:52,202
many rivers flow far too fast down.

176
00:15:56,783 --> 00:15:57,787
A stretch of mountains

177
00:15:57,787 --> 00:15:59,775
running the entire length of the island

178
00:15:59,775 --> 00:16:03,735
gives rise to some of Canada's
most spectacular waterfalls.

179
00:16:33,121 --> 00:16:36,954
Shoals of salmon have
worked their way inland.

180
00:16:38,347 --> 00:16:40,753
Using an extraordinary sense of smell,

181
00:16:40,753 --> 00:16:42,740
they've honed in on the fresh water river

182
00:16:42,740 --> 00:16:44,574
in which they hatched.

183
00:16:46,473 --> 00:16:49,428
They can sniff out a single
drop from their nursery stream

184
00:16:49,428 --> 00:16:52,845
in almost 10 million liters of sea water.

185
00:16:55,659 --> 00:16:58,909
But the salmon aren't home and dry yet.

186
00:17:02,823 --> 00:17:05,356
They pause and prepare themselves

187
00:17:05,356 --> 00:17:08,106
for the obstacle that lies ahead.

188
00:17:15,635 --> 00:17:19,801
These salmon were born to
return to their spawning ground.

189
00:17:22,692 --> 00:17:26,109
And nothing short of death can stop them.

190
00:17:33,173 --> 00:17:34,913
Racing towards the fall,

191
00:17:34,913 --> 00:17:37,913
they launch themselves into the air.

192
00:17:47,076 --> 00:17:50,008
Beneath the white froth, water is squeezed

193
00:17:50,008 --> 00:17:54,533
back up to the surface, the
salmon use this hydraulic uplift

194
00:17:54,533 --> 00:17:56,283
to boost their jumps.

195
00:18:10,583 --> 00:18:13,583
Initial leaps are rarely successful,

196
00:18:19,453 --> 00:18:21,900
but giving up isn't an option.

197
00:18:32,416 --> 00:18:35,166
Eventually perseverance pays off.

198
00:18:48,738 --> 00:18:52,905
These athletic efforts are
fueled by just stored energy.

199
00:18:56,223 --> 00:18:57,983
The salmons cease eating or drinking

200
00:18:57,983 --> 00:18:59,895
as soon as they entered
the freshwater rivers

201
00:18:59,895 --> 00:19:01,311
several days ago.

202
00:19:08,837 --> 00:19:13,004
For some, the journey home
has already taken its toll.

203
00:19:16,404 --> 00:19:20,570
Taking time out to catch a
breath can be a costly mistake.

204
00:19:25,095 --> 00:19:28,012
Especially in black bear territory.

205
00:19:33,271 --> 00:19:35,721
Vancouver Island has
the densest population

206
00:19:35,721 --> 00:19:38,055
of black bears in the world.

207
00:19:40,966 --> 00:19:44,328
They're darker than mainland
bears and slightly larger,

208
00:19:44,328 --> 00:19:46,745
weighing up to 275 kilograms.

209
00:19:57,721 --> 00:19:59,816
Although largely vegetarian,

210
00:19:59,816 --> 00:20:02,932
feeding on grasses and
berries for most of the year,

211
00:20:02,932 --> 00:20:06,182
they are the island's largest predator.

212
00:20:13,317 --> 00:20:15,780
The annual salmon run
provides a major food source

213
00:20:15,780 --> 00:20:17,030
for many bears.

214
00:20:19,792 --> 00:20:23,084
The brain, eggs, skin and back muscles

215
00:20:23,084 --> 00:20:25,812
contain high levels of fat.

216
00:20:25,812 --> 00:20:29,146
And it's these areas the bears focus on.

217
00:20:33,185 --> 00:20:36,519
They can each eat up to 15 salmon a day.

218
00:20:40,753 --> 00:20:42,761
Four centimeter curved claws

219
00:20:42,761 --> 00:20:44,908
and a set of flesh tearing teeth

220
00:20:44,908 --> 00:20:47,424
aren't the only qualities
keeping black bears

221
00:20:47,424 --> 00:20:49,924
at the top of the food chain.

222
00:20:51,359 --> 00:20:54,035
They can also scale trees with ease,

223
00:20:54,035 --> 00:20:58,201
run at over 55 kilometers an
hour, and swim long distances.

224
00:21:05,720 --> 00:21:07,939
To top it off, their sense of smell

225
00:21:07,939 --> 00:21:11,689
is seven times sharper
than the bloodhound's.

226
00:21:14,590 --> 00:21:17,037
Despite these impressive attributes,

227
00:21:17,037 --> 00:21:19,273
catching live salmon
in these deeper waters

228
00:21:19,273 --> 00:21:20,909
is easier said than done.

229
00:21:35,183 --> 00:21:37,999
Further upstream, the
water levels are too low

230
00:21:37,999 --> 00:21:42,451
for the salmon to continue
their journey home.

231
00:21:42,451 --> 00:21:44,881
Until the heavy autumn rains arrive,

232
00:21:44,881 --> 00:21:47,381
they'll just have to sit tight

233
00:21:50,072 --> 00:21:52,739
as will the island's many bears.

234
00:22:11,826 --> 00:22:13,392
Black bears play a vital role

235
00:22:13,392 --> 00:22:16,059
in Vancouver Island's ecosystem.

236
00:22:19,200 --> 00:22:20,872
Not all salmon are completely consumed

237
00:22:20,872 --> 00:22:23,758
after being carried into the forests.

238
00:22:23,758 --> 00:22:27,925
And this has a significant
effect on the surrounding land.

239
00:22:30,588 --> 00:22:34,090
When these carcasses break
down, nitrogen, phosphorus

240
00:22:34,090 --> 00:22:36,220
and other nutrients are absorbed

241
00:22:36,220 --> 00:22:38,720
by the surrounding vegetation.

242
00:22:42,820 --> 00:22:45,266
Up to 70% of the nitrogen in some areas

243
00:22:45,266 --> 00:22:47,682
comes directly from the fish.

244
00:22:50,161 --> 00:22:52,705
Trees taking root close to salmon rivers

245
00:22:52,705 --> 00:22:54,005
grow three times faster

246
00:22:54,005 --> 00:22:57,088
than those next to fish free streams.

247
00:22:59,920 --> 00:23:03,968
Here, Sitka spruce take just
86 years to rich a thickness

248
00:23:03,968 --> 00:23:08,134
of 50 centimenters, rather
than the usual 300 years.

249
00:23:11,130 --> 00:23:13,189
Vancouver Island is home to the tallest

250
00:23:13,189 --> 00:23:17,378
Sikta spruce trees in
Canada, possibly the world.

251
00:23:17,378 --> 00:23:20,351
Some reach heights of over 95 meters,

252
00:23:20,351 --> 00:23:23,017
taller than a 30 story building.

253
00:23:26,811 --> 00:23:28,747
Sitka seedlings, however,

254
00:23:28,747 --> 00:23:31,664
have a difficult time starting out.

255
00:23:33,287 --> 00:23:37,424
Dense mosses and smaller
plants carpet the forest floor,

256
00:23:37,424 --> 00:23:40,979
making it difficult for them to take root.

257
00:23:40,979 --> 00:23:43,812
But many are given a helping hand.

258
00:23:45,555 --> 00:23:48,792
Fallen trees repay hundreds
of years worth of benefits

259
00:23:48,792 --> 00:23:50,792
by acting as nurse logs.

260
00:23:55,392 --> 00:23:57,910
Seeds landing on these downed giants

261
00:23:57,910 --> 00:23:59,951
already have a height head start

262
00:23:59,951 --> 00:24:04,034
as well as an open area
to germinate and develop.

263
00:24:06,473 --> 00:24:10,640
Over 90% of the Sitka seedlings
here start out this way.

264
00:24:14,744 --> 00:24:17,280
Fungi also feed on decaying trees

265
00:24:17,280 --> 00:24:20,863
and play their part in
recycling nutrients.

266
00:24:26,290 --> 00:24:28,246
This Pacific Banana Slug

267
00:24:28,246 --> 00:24:31,042
is the 2nd largest land slug in the world

268
00:24:31,042 --> 00:24:34,292
and can grow up to 25 centimeters long.

269
00:24:37,045 --> 00:24:38,663
They're fond of mushrooms

270
00:24:38,663 --> 00:24:42,043
and spread seeds and spores when they eat.

271
00:24:42,043 --> 00:24:46,210
After which, they excrete
a nitrogen rich fertilizer.

272
00:24:52,961 --> 00:24:56,045
Possibly the most important
tree on the entire island

273
00:24:56,045 --> 00:24:58,128
is the western red cedar.

274
00:25:01,853 --> 00:25:05,743
This particular giant is over
18 meters in circumference

275
00:25:05,743 --> 00:25:07,910
and almost 60 meters tall.

276
00:25:10,230 --> 00:25:12,342
It's the largest tree in Canada

277
00:25:12,342 --> 00:25:15,592
and the largest red cedar in the world.

278
00:25:18,907 --> 00:25:22,163
At an estimated two and a
half thousand years old,

279
00:25:22,163 --> 00:25:26,330
it's one of the oldest living
organisms on the planet.

280
00:25:28,166 --> 00:25:30,313
Red cedar has a high natural resistance

281
00:25:30,313 --> 00:25:32,396
to rot and insect damage.

282
00:25:34,924 --> 00:25:37,651
For thousands of years it's
been the wood of choice

283
00:25:37,651 --> 00:25:40,234
for the island's only settlers.

284
00:25:42,246 --> 00:25:46,046
This half finished warrior
canoe still bears carving marks

285
00:25:46,046 --> 00:25:50,213
made before it was abandoned
several centuries ago.

286
00:25:51,837 --> 00:25:54,494
Back then, people lived off the land

287
00:25:54,494 --> 00:25:58,661
and had a deep spiritual
connection with all living things.

288
00:26:00,919 --> 00:26:05,086
Especially the island
salmon and huge cedar trees.

289
00:26:15,024 --> 00:26:18,791
Cedar carved totem poles
preserve stories of encounters,

290
00:26:18,791 --> 00:26:22,958
adventures and accomplishments
by the various clans.

291
00:26:34,744 --> 00:26:36,644
The Namgis people have lived off

292
00:26:36,644 --> 00:26:40,811
the northeast coast of
the island for millennium.

293
00:26:42,082 --> 00:26:43,578
Ancient culture is kept alive

294
00:26:43,578 --> 00:26:46,578
through oral history and ceremonies.

295
00:26:53,540 --> 00:26:57,335
Their ancestors relied on the
island's salmon for survival.

296
00:26:57,335 --> 00:26:59,994
Even today, the fish are revered,

297
00:26:59,994 --> 00:27:02,494
as are the rivers around them.

298
00:27:15,093 --> 00:27:18,631
It's said that long ago
when the world was young,

299
00:27:18,631 --> 00:27:21,881
a man was approached by a spirit being.

300
00:27:23,559 --> 00:27:26,867
The spirit asked him if he
wanted to become a mountain.

301
00:27:26,867 --> 00:27:31,034
The man refused because mountains
eventually crumble away.

302
00:27:34,699 --> 00:27:37,867
He was then asked if he'd
like to become a cedar tree.

303
00:27:37,867 --> 00:27:42,034
The man also refused, as
trees can split, fall and rot.

304
00:27:49,407 --> 00:27:51,719
On being asked if he'd
like to become a bolder,

305
00:27:51,719 --> 00:27:54,481
the reply was also negative.

306
00:27:54,481 --> 00:27:56,648
Bolders crack and crumble.

307
00:27:59,498 --> 00:28:03,141
Finally, when asked if he'd
like to become a river,

308
00:28:03,141 --> 00:28:04,974
then man answered yes.

309
00:28:07,348 --> 00:28:08,913
The spirit then pushed the man down,

310
00:28:08,913 --> 00:28:11,537
saying "There you'll be a river

311
00:28:11,537 --> 00:28:14,123
"for as long as the
days dawn in the world.

312
00:28:14,123 --> 00:28:16,217
"And you will be full of salmon

313
00:28:16,217 --> 00:28:19,884
"so that your descendants
may never starve."

314
00:28:35,841 --> 00:28:38,481
The river became the
largest on Vancouver Island

315
00:28:38,481 --> 00:28:41,898
and eventually bore the name, the Namgis.

316
00:28:44,905 --> 00:28:49,072
It's now known by its modern
name, the Nimkis River.

317
00:28:58,468 --> 00:29:01,566
Before reaching the sea, the
island's network of rivers

318
00:29:01,566 --> 00:29:04,232
feeds over 2,000 separate lakes.

319
00:29:07,444 --> 00:29:10,595
Nitinat Lake lies so close to the coast,

320
00:29:10,595 --> 00:29:13,011
it contains mostly saltwater.

321
00:29:18,128 --> 00:29:20,539
Haley Lake sits further inland

322
00:29:20,539 --> 00:29:22,704
and is filled by freshwater streams

323
00:29:22,704 --> 00:29:25,288
from the surrounding mountains.

324
00:29:31,699 --> 00:29:34,708
On these inclines, one
creature makes the most

325
00:29:34,708 --> 00:29:38,473
of the autumn sun before
bedding down for winter.

326
00:29:43,342 --> 00:29:47,509
Marmots are the largest
members of the squirrel family.

327
00:29:48,763 --> 00:29:51,156
They're about the size of a domestic cat

328
00:29:51,156 --> 00:29:53,823
and weigh around five kilograms.

329
00:29:56,331 --> 00:29:57,792
Vancouver Island marmots

330
00:29:57,792 --> 00:30:00,653
are the rarest marmots in the world.

331
00:30:00,653 --> 00:30:04,121
At one point their numbers
dropped to just 25,

332
00:30:04,121 --> 00:30:06,621
but are now slowly recovering.

333
00:30:10,702 --> 00:30:14,099
Family colonies are made
up of around six members

334
00:30:14,099 --> 00:30:15,718
and at this time of year,

335
00:30:15,718 --> 00:30:18,968
they're grabbing the last of the food.

336
00:30:20,313 --> 00:30:23,217
Tail flipping is a visual
way of keeping in contact

337
00:30:23,217 --> 00:30:27,050
with the rest of the
group while on the move.

338
00:30:28,849 --> 00:30:33,015
Nose greeting is the
marmot's way of saying hello.

339
00:30:34,315 --> 00:30:35,951
Smelling a visitor's cheek

340
00:30:35,951 --> 00:30:39,701
helps identify who's
who among the neighbors.

341
00:30:44,277 --> 00:30:46,599
Most marmots live above 1,000 meters,

342
00:30:46,599 --> 00:30:49,117
where open alpine
meadows provide a variety

343
00:30:49,117 --> 00:30:50,867
of grasses and herbs.

344
00:30:54,009 --> 00:30:56,842
Lupines are a particular favorite.

345
00:30:59,299 --> 00:31:00,831
In the next few days,

346
00:31:00,831 --> 00:31:02,924
the marmots will
hibernate in their burrows

347
00:31:02,924 --> 00:31:05,008
to avoid the winter cold.

348
00:31:06,339 --> 00:31:07,747
They'll have lost a third of their weight

349
00:31:07,747 --> 00:31:10,663
by the time they reemerge in April.

350
00:31:15,649 --> 00:31:18,816
But not all family members are hungry.

351
00:31:19,908 --> 00:31:22,513
Sun bathing on bolders
helps to cool and regulate

352
00:31:22,513 --> 00:31:24,930
the marmots body temperature.

353
00:31:27,241 --> 00:31:30,971
These elevated vantage points
also provide a lookout tower

354
00:31:30,971 --> 00:31:32,637
for small predators.

355
00:31:38,451 --> 00:31:39,683
A high pitched whistle

356
00:31:39,683 --> 00:31:42,849
alerts the whole family to the danger.

357
00:31:46,212 --> 00:31:48,449
Other colonies relay the warning,

358
00:31:48,449 --> 00:31:51,949
creating an echo across the entire valley.

359
00:31:55,259 --> 00:31:59,425
A circling bird could be a
golden eagle and pose a threat.

360
00:32:03,673 --> 00:32:07,839
But this particular predator
has a different meat in mind.

361
00:32:14,815 --> 00:32:18,982
The bald eagle is the most
iconic bird in North America.

362
00:32:20,817 --> 00:32:23,185
It has a wind span of over two meters

363
00:32:23,185 --> 00:32:26,102
and can weigh up to five kilograms.

364
00:32:30,772 --> 00:32:35,700
Despite its name, it isn't bald
and unlike the golden eagle,

365
00:32:35,700 --> 00:32:38,313
it isn't classed as a true eagle,

366
00:32:38,313 --> 00:32:42,146
because it's legs aren't
completely feathered.

367
00:32:45,988 --> 00:32:49,911
However, it's the only eagle
exclusive to North America

368
00:32:49,911 --> 00:32:52,816
and the only member of
the sea eagle family

369
00:32:52,816 --> 00:32:55,232
living throughout this range.

370
00:32:59,022 --> 00:33:01,855
Bald eagles are expert at fishing.

371
00:33:03,070 --> 00:33:06,238
Fish make up around 90% of their diet

372
00:33:06,238 --> 00:33:08,904
and salmon is of key importance.

373
00:33:28,203 --> 00:33:30,244
This particular eagle
isn't searching for food

374
00:33:30,244 --> 00:33:32,244
in the rivers and lakes.

375
00:33:33,958 --> 00:33:36,580
Hunting fish requires lots of energy,

376
00:33:36,580 --> 00:33:40,747
and it's thought that only one
in 18 missions is successful.

377
00:33:42,107 --> 00:33:45,690
Panting helps to regulate
body temperature.

378
00:33:49,763 --> 00:33:53,596
After catching its breath,
the eagle moves in.

379
00:34:05,022 --> 00:34:08,031
It shields the find from other predators,

380
00:34:08,031 --> 00:34:09,948
an act called mantling.

381
00:34:13,391 --> 00:34:16,102
Dead or discarded salmon
make up a major part

382
00:34:16,102 --> 00:34:18,185
of the bald eagle's diet.

383
00:34:21,892 --> 00:34:24,198
This bird is no fussy eater.

384
00:34:24,198 --> 00:34:28,364
And the black bear's
leftovers are a welcome meal.

385
00:34:39,634 --> 00:34:42,308
The nutrients that the
salmon bring to the island

386
00:34:42,308 --> 00:34:43,910
on their journey home

387
00:34:43,910 --> 00:34:46,454
originate almost entirely from the sea.

388
00:34:49,640 --> 00:34:51,084
Vancouver Island has some of the most

389
00:34:51,084 --> 00:34:53,529
food rich shores on the planet,

390
00:34:53,529 --> 00:34:58,300
which are home to an
abundance of marine creatures.

391
00:35:02,926 --> 00:35:06,465
This intertidal zone is a
colorful cold water paradise

392
00:35:06,465 --> 00:35:09,715
that puts many tropical reefs to shame.

393
00:35:15,072 --> 00:35:18,081
In summer, super rich plankton blooms,

394
00:35:18,081 --> 00:35:21,914
giving aquatic creatures
a huge steroid boost.

395
00:35:25,580 --> 00:35:28,025
During winter, the water temperature drops

396
00:35:28,025 --> 00:35:30,442
to just five degrees Celsius.

397
00:35:32,655 --> 00:35:35,417
This allows deeper ocean
oxygen and nutrients

398
00:35:35,417 --> 00:35:39,584
to rise to the surface and
be washed closer to shore.

399
00:35:48,331 --> 00:35:52,497
Barnacles sweep for plankton
with their fan like feet.

400
00:35:56,709 --> 00:35:59,577
Feather duster worms wave
their sticky tentacles,

401
00:35:59,577 --> 00:36:03,577
trapping edible debris
much like a spider's web.

402
00:36:09,782 --> 00:36:12,866
Starfish here grow to enormous sizes.

403
00:36:14,340 --> 00:36:18,506
Some, like the sunflower star
reach up to a meter across.

404
00:36:19,514 --> 00:36:22,084
These giants can have up to 26 arms

405
00:36:22,084 --> 00:36:23,917
and 15,000 tubed feet.

406
00:36:25,270 --> 00:36:28,687
They can move at over one meter a minute.

407
00:36:37,916 --> 00:36:41,911
Many tidal creatures prefer
to keep a low profile.

408
00:36:41,911 --> 00:36:44,911
Camouflage is often key to survival.

409
00:36:48,370 --> 00:36:52,576
For a crab, breaking cover
is a dangerous decision.

410
00:36:57,082 --> 00:37:00,915
The intertidal zone is
patrolled by a monster.

411
00:37:02,871 --> 00:37:06,121
And crustaceans are always on the menu.

412
00:37:22,657 --> 00:37:26,171
The giant Pacific octopus
is the largest in the world.

413
00:37:26,171 --> 00:37:28,881
It can have an arm span
over over nine meters

414
00:37:28,881 --> 00:37:31,715
and weigh more than 250 kilograms.

415
00:37:35,851 --> 00:37:39,601
Fish, sharks, even birds
are sometimes eaten.

416
00:37:48,875 --> 00:37:51,973
Predators aside, the
intertidal zone can be

417
00:37:51,973 --> 00:37:54,723
one of the most violent habitats.

418
00:38:00,175 --> 00:38:02,585
High tides bring crashing waters,

419
00:38:02,585 --> 00:38:04,733
capable of crushing anything untethered

420
00:38:04,733 --> 00:38:06,899
or not glued to the rocks.

421
00:38:11,755 --> 00:38:15,443
Low tides can expose plants
and animals to hot sun,

422
00:38:15,443 --> 00:38:18,110
fresh water and dehydrating air.

423
00:38:21,797 --> 00:38:25,053
In one location, boiling
sulfur saturated water

424
00:38:25,053 --> 00:38:27,886
is even thrown into the mix.

425
00:38:30,281 --> 00:38:32,163
On the western side of the island,

426
00:38:32,163 --> 00:38:35,033
on the shores of Maquenna Provincial Park

427
00:38:35,033 --> 00:38:38,700
lies evidence of the
island's volcanic past.

428
00:38:44,571 --> 00:38:48,738
Boiling spring water bubbles
up from deep in the Earth.

429
00:38:50,626 --> 00:38:53,266
It cascades along a series of rock pools

430
00:38:53,266 --> 00:38:56,016
before finally entering the sea.

431
00:39:00,658 --> 00:39:04,107
This part of the coast lies on
a fault in the Earth's crust,

432
00:39:04,107 --> 00:39:08,274
an enormous crack traveling
deep beneath the surface.

433
00:39:13,699 --> 00:39:17,866
This water hasn't seen
daylight for hundreds of years.

434
00:39:20,255 --> 00:39:22,200
It's traveled over five kilometers

435
00:39:22,200 --> 00:39:25,617
towards the center of the Earth and back.

436
00:39:29,634 --> 00:39:32,452
On its slow journey
through the rock layers,

437
00:39:32,452 --> 00:39:34,704
the water is geothermically heated

438
00:39:34,704 --> 00:39:37,063
to over 100 degrees Celsius,

439
00:39:37,063 --> 00:39:40,896
before pressure forces
it back to the surface.

440
00:39:44,912 --> 00:39:47,658
The water reemerges at around 50 degrees,

441
00:39:47,658 --> 00:39:51,658
having absorbed high
concentrations of minerals.

442
00:39:58,030 --> 00:40:01,040
While boiling water bubbles at sea level,

443
00:40:01,040 --> 00:40:04,912
2,000 meters higher up,
ice is a year round fixture

444
00:40:04,912 --> 00:40:07,412
on many of the island's peaks.

445
00:40:11,230 --> 00:40:14,592
Along with volcanism and the
collision of tectonic plates,

446
00:40:14,592 --> 00:40:17,126
glaciation also played a major part

447
00:40:17,126 --> 00:40:19,292
in the region's formation.

448
00:40:25,680 --> 00:40:27,492
Around 10,000 years ago,

449
00:40:27,492 --> 00:40:30,729
the Comox Valley was buried
beneath a sheet of ice

450
00:40:30,729 --> 00:40:33,063
more than a kilometer thick.

451
00:40:34,198 --> 00:40:36,820
As it moved, the glacier gouged valleys

452
00:40:36,820 --> 00:40:38,653
out of the land below.

453
00:40:41,555 --> 00:40:45,721
The climate eventually warmed
and the ice sheets melted,

454
00:40:46,897 --> 00:40:48,563
most of it at least.

455
00:40:51,492 --> 00:40:54,924
The Comox glacier still
looms over the valley.

456
00:40:54,924 --> 00:40:57,669
It's the largest glacier
on Vancouver Island

457
00:40:57,669 --> 00:41:01,836
and is another reminder of
the region's dramatic past.

458
00:41:09,250 --> 00:41:11,117
One volcanic byproduct

459
00:41:11,117 --> 00:41:14,950
had a magnetic effect
on the human population.

460
00:41:18,121 --> 00:41:21,535
It attracted people from
Australia, California

461
00:41:21,535 --> 00:41:25,317
and virtually all parts of the world.

462
00:41:25,317 --> 00:41:30,157
In 1864, gold was discovered
in the island's rivers

463
00:41:30,157 --> 00:41:33,324
and prospectors stampeded to get here.

464
00:41:36,228 --> 00:41:40,417
Some streams yielded up to
120 kilograms of gold a year,

465
00:41:40,417 --> 00:41:44,583
around five millions pounds
worth by recent values.

466
00:41:49,393 --> 00:41:51,100
When animal trapper Joe Drinkwater

467
00:41:51,100 --> 00:41:54,954
came across the precious
metal in one particular creek

468
00:41:54,954 --> 00:41:58,287
he set up a vast gold panning operation.

469
00:42:01,660 --> 00:42:03,561
The dried up river bed
yielded a huge amount

470
00:42:03,561 --> 00:42:05,394
of the precious metal.

471
00:42:07,626 --> 00:42:09,376
Joe soon became rich.

472
00:42:12,942 --> 00:42:15,617
Further along the valley,
Joe also discovered

473
00:42:15,617 --> 00:42:17,867
Canada's tallest waterfall.

474
00:42:20,316 --> 00:42:21,566
At 440 meters,

475
00:42:22,481 --> 00:42:26,036
Della Falls is eight
times taller than Niagara.

476
00:42:44,808 --> 00:42:48,240
Joe eventually sold all
his prospecting claims.

477
00:42:48,240 --> 00:42:52,407
But even today his name
lives on in Drinkwater Creek.

478
00:42:55,332 --> 00:42:57,999
As does that of his wife, Della.

479
00:43:16,104 --> 00:43:19,237
It's only October and
many of Vancouver Island's

480
00:43:19,237 --> 00:43:22,821
upper streams have
dried to just a trickle.

481
00:43:26,347 --> 00:43:28,899
The autumn rains are long overdue.

482
00:43:28,899 --> 00:43:30,747
And the recent drought
has prevented salmon

483
00:43:30,747 --> 00:43:34,913
from moving up river to
reach their spawning grounds.

484
00:43:50,073 --> 00:43:53,073
But it appears change is in the air.

485
00:43:56,760 --> 00:43:58,537
Even the island's black bears

486
00:43:58,537 --> 00:44:02,704
who have been waiting
patiently for weeks, sense it.

487
00:44:08,464 --> 00:44:11,016
Soon, the rivers are full flow.

488
00:44:16,333 --> 00:44:18,583
The salmon make their move.

489
00:44:35,393 --> 00:44:37,059
And so do the bears.

490
00:45:25,225 --> 00:45:26,105
Black bears can kill

491
00:45:26,105 --> 00:45:30,022
up to half the salmon in
these smaller streams.

492
00:45:32,170 --> 00:45:35,566
They can each consume up
to 20,000 calories a day

493
00:45:35,566 --> 00:45:37,900
when stocking up for winter.

494
00:45:49,136 --> 00:45:51,160
Despite the deluge of rain,

495
00:45:51,160 --> 00:45:55,326
the rivers remain relatively
clear and free of debris.

496
00:45:57,355 --> 00:45:58,992
Tree roots in the surrounding forests

497
00:45:58,992 --> 00:46:01,385
hold the soil, which filters water

498
00:46:01,385 --> 00:46:03,802
before it enters the streams.

499
00:46:05,557 --> 00:46:09,724
These rivers contain some of
the purest water in the world.

500
00:46:12,493 --> 00:46:15,184
For those salmon that
manage to avoid the bears

501
00:46:15,184 --> 00:46:17,366
and make it further up stream,

502
00:46:17,366 --> 00:46:19,848
a final challenge lies ahead.

503
00:46:33,119 --> 00:46:36,833
Males of this stage are
often gaunt with hooked jaws,

504
00:46:36,833 --> 00:46:39,666
humped backs and battle torn fins.

505
00:46:43,531 --> 00:46:45,713
Many females display large white patches

506
00:46:45,713 --> 00:46:48,129
of bruised and diseased skin.

507
00:46:51,222 --> 00:46:54,722
Fortunately, their mission is nearly over.

508
00:46:59,969 --> 00:47:01,694
Females jostle for position

509
00:47:01,694 --> 00:47:05,027
above the best places to lay their eggs.

510
00:47:16,363 --> 00:47:20,279
Males line up behind,
fighting off competitors.

511
00:47:25,498 --> 00:47:28,824
Finally, the female chooses her moment

512
00:47:28,824 --> 00:47:30,907
and lays a batch of eggs.

513
00:47:36,164 --> 00:47:39,997
The male instantly moves
in to fertilize them.

514
00:47:45,684 --> 00:47:50,272
Female salmon lay around 3,000
eggs in a series of nests.

515
00:47:50,272 --> 00:47:53,493
Each one is covered by gravel
to protect against predators

516
00:47:53,493 --> 00:47:57,076
and to prevent the eggs
from drifting away.

517
00:48:07,519 --> 00:48:09,473
But even before they've hatched,

518
00:48:09,473 --> 00:48:12,806
the salmon's battle for survival begins.

519
00:48:14,641 --> 00:48:17,227
Glaucous-winged gulls paddle their feet

520
00:48:17,227 --> 00:48:20,811
along the freshly
visited spawning grounds.

521
00:48:22,473 --> 00:48:26,223
Those large eggs are a
protein rich delicacy.

522
00:48:39,227 --> 00:48:42,113
Dippers usually eat aquatic insect larvae,

523
00:48:42,113 --> 00:48:46,196
which they dive to collect
from the river bottom.

524
00:48:48,519 --> 00:48:52,686
At this time of year they
capitalize on the salmon spawn.

525
00:48:54,486 --> 00:48:58,652
However, certain pickings
are often too big to swallow.

526
00:49:12,016 --> 00:49:16,016
Only 10% of salmon eggs
will successfully hatch.

527
00:49:19,110 --> 00:49:22,048
For every 1,000 laid, only four

528
00:49:22,048 --> 00:49:26,214
will make the journey to
the ocean and back again.

529
00:49:28,789 --> 00:49:32,289
These adult salmon are ultimate survivors.

530
00:49:36,324 --> 00:49:37,824
Their job is done.

531
00:49:40,793 --> 00:49:43,819
They've passed the baton
to the next generation

532
00:49:43,819 --> 00:49:47,736
and this final act marks
the end of their life.

533
00:49:54,286 --> 00:49:58,286
Pacific salmon always die
after they've spawned.

534
00:49:59,321 --> 00:50:01,433
Through a combination of exhaustion

535
00:50:01,433 --> 00:50:05,076
and the effects of moving
from salt to freshwater,

536
00:50:05,076 --> 00:50:06,660
they breathe their last

537
00:50:06,660 --> 00:50:09,758
in the same streams they started out in.

538
00:50:17,453 --> 00:50:19,830
Their decomposing bodies release nutrients

539
00:50:19,830 --> 00:50:22,413
that feed the aquatic food web.

540
00:50:26,633 --> 00:50:31,472
This in turn will nurture
the next generation of salmon

541
00:50:31,472 --> 00:50:35,222
throughout Vancouver
Island's rivers of life.

542
00:50:55,375 --> 00:50:58,792
Vancouver Island is a diverse wilderness.

543
00:50:59,845 --> 00:51:02,749
Shorelines, forests and mountainous peaks

544
00:51:02,749 --> 00:51:05,915
are home to a whole host of creatures.

545
00:51:08,416 --> 00:51:10,862
And a unique network of rivers and creeks

546
00:51:10,862 --> 00:51:14,195
carries the fuel for many forms of life.

547
00:51:17,938 --> 00:51:20,208
One fish plays a pivotal role

548
00:51:20,208 --> 00:51:23,291
in sustaining the region's ecosystem.

549
00:51:26,826 --> 00:51:29,993
Vancouver Island relies on its salmon.

550
00:51:31,688 --> 00:51:35,661
And this remarkable creature
depends on the island too,

551
00:51:35,661 --> 00:51:37,327
throughout its life.